That's Sydney weather!

What a mess! Bedding ruined... ceilings to be repainted and roof to be repaired. Eek! we leave in 4 weeks!

Go ladies Go!

Fantastic to catch up with the other B & B ladies! What a great bunch they are.

Tranquil Taquile

A fantastic walk through Taquile. Passed young shepherd with their flocks. Sad to see though that many of the sheep had been hobbled and the ropes cut deep into their legs. The climb up was breathless, both in the fantastic views and the steep climb. As usual we watched aged women and men with huge bundles on their backs overtaking us effortlessly!

Talking with Edwin along the way we learnt of some of the customs... marriage was interesting. On most of the islands the young couples make their decision to marry after a couple of weeks and then move in with each other. They then have three years to finally make up their minds.

If there are children however, there is no going back... and once you are married it is for life!

Once a couple decide to marry, the festivities start. The couple's family are responsible for feeding the island for 12 days! At least 20 sheep are roasted and after watching the New Year's festivities we can see that much beer will be drunk! You wouldn't want to have too many children!

As we walked into the square we watched as a very distinguished line of "presidents" complete with sashes and bowler hats sashayed down into the valley and out to a distant village. Young children dashed around us selling small bracelets and weaving. We headed up, up to a stunning restaurant overlooking the ocean and the 500 steps we had to descend to our boat!

Before lunch one of the local guys demonstrated the clothing worn, white hats for umen, red for married and a funny pom pom hat for the president. A quick demonstration of how local plants are used for making detergents, dyes and food. By the time he had demonstrated the amazing knitting (definitely men only) we were ready for the splendid lunch of soup (of course), trout and omelettes and then off into the hot sunshine back down the steps to the boat.

The journey back a bit boisterous, not the peaceful trip of our outward journey. I must admit to catching a few ZZZZZZZ under the boat awning.

Suddenly the dream was over and we were back in Puno!

Its a long way to the top if you want to rock and roll!

Leaving our host family we walked back down to the boat with Isa. We had only been here one day and night but it really did feel like forever. We now knew the paths and as we passed the donkeys in the fields we looked them in the eye and thought.. was it you who brayed all night and kept us awake!!!

Luckily we didn't know!

Felt strange to be on the other end of the farewells, so many times we have hugged our B & B guests and wondered when we will see them again but this time we were the ones leaving!

A short trip this morning but it contrasted greatly with the day before which had been a calm placid lake... today the waves rolled and the boat pitched. Its ok Edwin told us, our captain is very experienced and knows all of these waterways. BUT within five minutes an old fellow who somehow we had picked up to give a lift back to Puno was driving the boat and the Captain was asleep up on top of the boat!

Only an hour trip before we got to Taquile and we were all relaxed telling stories of our homestay, when suddenly the boat tilted and the boat hook and oar shot forward and then as the boat righted itself the boat hook shot into the sea.... the Captain awoke, leapt to the back of the boat and looked balefully out... only to turn to us yawn loudly and then back to the sleeping post!

Publish Post

Docking was interesting as the captain, his mate and Edwin scrambled to pull the boat into dock with no pole but somehow we did it and suddenly we were on shore and heading up, up up!

Gorgeous blue sea behind us and winding path ahead of us ... another altitude and attitude moment.

leaving Amantani

The next morning was like waking with a hangover, even though I hadn't drunk any alcohol for a while. Where was I? Mmm.... Was Roger still alive? Was I? .....Phew! He sure was but I was as sluggish as!

We watched as members of the family emerged from the "sleeping/living" room... how many were there? We watched as two old ladies emerged and begnn their tasks. Eventually a tousled haired youth emerged. Isabella and Isa talked quietly in cadenced voices as they cooked pancakes for our breakfast. Suddenly it was time to leave... all too fast.

Strangely we were now walking down the pathways that had become familiar to us and down to the boat. Sad to say goodbye to our family... also strange to exchange email addresses!

Back to Mayhem

Whoo! Coming back down was just so easy. We got back to the square where the festivities had truly heated up. Within seconds the members of our group disappeared into the melee . I will never forget two images. A whole village group disappearing up the hill that was such a wheezing effort for us - but for them it was a cacophony of music and laughter as effortlessly they swung their way up the hill.

The other image is of a VERY drunken guy.. happy as Larry (Now who was he?!) lurching towards the pathway up over the hills. His very happy wife was steering him towards home (now how many miles up up hill did they have to walk?). Suddenly the party sounds caught his ear and quick as a flash he was back down the hill and dancing once more!

VERY sad wife!

After a day that started at 5.00am and a 2 hour walk we were really glad to see Mr Valerio who lead us along dark narrow pathways full of "happy" villagers. 30 minutes later we were greeted by Isabelle who had our meal ready... soup, vegetarian pasta and Munya ( mint tea)

Isabella and her daughter Isa cooking dinner for us

The question of do you want to go back to the festival was greeted by grunts... it was 10.00pm and we were ready to sleep!.. Mmmm 5 heavy blankets, no problem! The noise of donkeys braying now that was another matter.

After about 2 hours of blissful sleep I suddenly realised that the donkeys had stopped braying but there was a different sound.... "Oh no!" That was a sound that over the years I have come to dread. An asthmatic desperately trying to breath. Roger was having a REALLY, REALLY bad attack. What do do? NO electricity! A quick whiff of medication ... Roger sort of sleeping and MOI... totally panic and only the donkeys for company.

Walking the talk!

As we left the the heaving square of colour and movement we started to walk along paved walkways - thanks again to Fujimori. Groups of brightly dressed people singing and dancing disappeared over the hillside to distant villages. We just headed up! Stunning views... no breath.. phew! and lots of stories.

There were two large peaks... female the highest ( of course!) Each January the population splits in two and meets at their temple. A race down the mountain.... if the women win its a bountiful harvest if the men win well guess what!

So how come they still believe this stuff? Who knows?

Breathlessly we approached the top... half way there I had thought .. "do I really need to see the view from the top?" Finally we knew we were there because there were people selling hats, shawls, scarves etc. THEN they said "You have to walk around anti-clockwise three times and your wish will come true" Now I so don't believe in this stuff but I did it anyway... and do you know I didn't really need anything to wish for - except maybe MORE oxygen!

Hey! The view was spectacular!