Quito

We arrived in Quito early evening and sped away in our yellow taxi, down a wide urban motorway crushed with cars and crowded buses. Shops were pretty much closed and the safety barriers locked firmly down. Upstairs lights glowed and we had glimpses of families eating, laughing and talking. The streets were deserted!

We turned down a narrow street and there was our hotel. .... Locked and barred. Mmmmm. We rang the bell .... no reply.... rang again. We then decided to ask at the next hotel which was 5 star plus with bellhops in amazing uniforms. Si, Si, Hotel Posada Colonial .... ring the bell. We hammered on the door and in the distance we heard the clatter of footsteps and the creaking and clanking of keys and metal gates. Our host greeted us unsmilingly!

We followed him up marble stairs, through two sets of metal gates which he locked meticulously and into a dark, cavernous entrance way. We signed in and he lead us to a huge double room with large windows. Geraniums filled the window boxes and we looked down onto the quaint narrow street. This will do us we thought!

Now for something to eat. Our host we realised was actually the security guard, and apart from him the whole place appeared to be deserted. He let us out through the gates and we felt unsure whether we would be able to rouse him when we returned!

There was absolutely no one around. We ventured down the hill... nothing was open. We passed a small bar which was open. Sprukers with electronic badges flashing "Bella Hermosa" invited us in.... "Comar" we said. "Si, Si" but it didn't look too impressive and so we wandered, nervously down the street, eventually asking a guy where we could eat. He sent us back to the bar saying..."Go in the restaurant, quickly, its not safe to walk here!"

And so we stumbled on one of the best restaurants in Quito. Great food, magnificent view - perfect!

Luckily our security guard was awake and we sank gratefully into bed... to sleep, that is until 2.00am when a procession of coal trucks ground to a halt at the traffic lights on the corner, revving their engines as they tackled the steep hill up and out of the town. This continued until 6.00am, when we fell into that strange dreamless sleep of the exhausted!

Ten hour flight and ready for sleep we arrive at Santiago airport. We noticed that there was a different line for Aussies. mm $61 tourist visa entry fee for Aussies. We became British in a flash!….

The airport had minor damage, lots of ceiling collapse but the main structures are fine. We head off for a shuttle to our hotel - 20 USD! Seems a bit steep.

Our hotel – internet special is called the Fundador and has just been taken over by the Blue Tree group. The staff are fantastic… the decoration of the hotel a nightmare. We were amused to see that on our last day between going down for breakfast and returning the walls had been painted bright…white!

Surprisingly modern and quiet, a complete contrast to Peru. Beautiful, wide parks, where people sit and chat, play chess oblivious to the young couples who are clinched in passionate embraces everywhere you look!

We climbed to the top of Fort Hidalgo A strange kind of military folly built into the side of the hill which gave a fantastic view of the city. We walked down to the closing markets which had the most fantastic jewelry for a few dollars. It was starting to get dark and we were on the edge of the safety zone so headed for dinner yummy seafood, Portuguese hamburger and wine 20USD! I got the shock of my life though as I didn’t realize that the toilets were unisex and freaked a bit when two burly men walked in and got on with their business!

And so to the sleep of the jetlagged!

El bianco de Auckland

Our early morning start gave us a full day in Auckland. Dropped the luggage at the tiniest studio we have ever stayed in ... BUT it had everything. A two minute walk to Queens and we were having a full on breakfast. A walk down to the wharf and we decided to just take the regular ferry over to Devonport.

A great idea. Lovely trip over to this "seaside" resort. Great views of the city. Loved just walking, chilling out and chatting to people. Met up with a student from Switzerland studying English. Seemed a bit lost as she had to keep herself out of the homestay over the weekend.

Loved the artwork and jewelry...No No No... our bags are already too full.

Dinner that night was such fun.... we stumbled onto a Korean cafe for students where you chose your food and BBQ'd it on your table. There was an American couple next to us who were as clueless as us as to what we were eating or how to cook it. Tasted good though!

Christchurch once more!

Arrived back to the the Grand Chancellor Hotel, looking like vagabonds with all the bits and pieces from the campervan. Bryan from Go Wild was supposed to meet us there but NO we had a half an hour drive to return van.

Once there, he briskly gave us the money for the tyre and petrol but refused to acknowledge any real problems with the van.

Sadly had to get onto the internet and complain and we have now be compensated by one day's hire.

Not really what you want for a holiday.

Moodily he said he would run us to the airport, when we said we were in town at the Grand Chancellor he was even more pissed off and drove at 130km per hour to town. He kept mumbling that there was nothing wrong with the van until we tried to stop at lights and veered to the left and only just stopped in time.

He asked shakily if we were ok and then proceeded at a more regular speed. That guy definitely needs a negative blog but will wait til we get our dough!

So... that was New Zealand... groggily we tumbled out of the door at 4.00am the next morning....no shuttle eventually arrived and we made it onto the plane to Auckland!

Travelled back via Ruthven..........this was an amazing gorge swelling with glaciated water... but what was its name? Buggered if I know. But we loved it!

Franz Josef Glacier

Woah! What to say. It is so incredibly beautiful and we picked the best day. We shared the helicopter with three gregarious guys from Barcelona, will meet up with them in a couple of months time.

Loved the expansiveness of it... the scariness of the crevasses and the stunning glaciers and mountains. I'm sure all of you who have been there will have fab memories.

Okarita Okarita

Stayed on a strange campsite at a beautiful place called Okarita, which had an endless beach of pebbles and a gorgeous tranquil lagoon. The campsite was mainly a place for the bus tours to pull into and had a little sitting room which was a bit bleak.

Loved the environs though. Huge star filled sky. Found things a bit too expensive $40 each for a 2 hour canoe trip...We only had an hour so the choice was made. A bit of a missed opportunity though as I think the bird life would have been spectacular.

Made the typical tourist's mistake of trying to see too much...and spending too much time travelling.

Serandipity - Rapahoe

Stayed at a wonderful place Rapahoe Beach. Loved the stunning rock stacks. Beach of pebbles and driftwood. Fantastic.! Love the serandipity of this type of travel, the places you go and people you meet. So interesting how people make choices of where to live and the lifestyle.

Never showered in a lounge room before!

Go, Go G0

Visited this incredible goat farm. This little fellow was born without the use of his back legs and so they had adapted this old golf cart to give him freedom. He just loved it!

great cheese too

Lake Brunner

Felt really nostalgic for Colorado, Derbyshire and Canada as we drove over to Lake Brunner. Suprisingly the van drives really well, and the layout is really good. Really starting to relax. Stopped at the lake, just gorgeous. Morning tea and off to Greymouth........great run.

Stopped outside huge supermarket decided to stock up. As we got out Roger said "Oh No! I left my jacket at the cafe!" I looked up and started to laugh because we were parked right outside an outdoor shop. I thought Roger - who loves Jackets was angling for a new one. And then I looked at his face....WHITE AS!

"Its only a jacket" I said. "No" he said. "Its got my passport and EVERYTHING inside it. Luckily I had picked up a card but our mobiles weren't working. Finally we got onto the cafe, "Yes its here" Off back down the road, which did not look so attractive and relaxing now!

Phew! What luck.

Yoohoo! We are finally on holiday!

Jackson's Retreat Walk

Did a fantastic "short" walk to the waterfall..... of course we got so busy talking we missed all the signs and nearly ended up at the quartz mine. Finally got a chance to try out my new camera. Enjoyed taking shots of the flaura and fauna. Loved being in a rainforest again......just So beautiful

Goin wild in Christchurch

Loved Christchurch Art gallery..........Headed off to Riccarton market which was closed for Easter so had a gourmet breakfastand generally chilled out after a pretty stressful beginning to trip.........still haven't managed to fix van up.

Decided to head straight off over to Jackson's Retreat near Arthurs Pass. What a great idea that was. Great trip over and wonderful campsite. Complete with new kitchen, open fire, comfy chairs and wifi. Bliss.

Ended up at this really quiet campsite that had the weirdest vans imaginable. Click on the blue van. Sue who owned it pulled into the site 6 years ago and liked it so stayed and has been adding bits to it ever since......what more is there to say!

Proud owners, displayed their names outside and tended beautiful flower gardens.

We enjoyed walking out along the beach, gorgeous driftwood. First meal outdoors ..........not out too late cos brrrrr it was cold!

Christchurch here we come

Why do we always choose crack of dawn flights? I know, I know - we are cheapskates. 4.00 am Caleb has us organised and we are off! Felt sad to say goodbye but excited of course about our next leg of travel.

We had hired a campervan from internet, they had bumped us a couple of times and so we didn't get our original booking but we weren't prepared for the grotty van we got. We had a look around it - there were so many dings the guy couldn't record them all. It was the tyre that was bald right down to the metal that had us worried though.

He drove us around to get a new one but every garage was closed because of Easter Saturday. We reluctantly drove off with the agreement that we would buy a new tyre and get reimbursed. Stopped to do the shop and saw that the regio was out of date. Also the petrol was only half full. We called him - he arrived grumpily and we sorted a few things out.

Cooking dinner we realised that the gas bottled leaked and was only half full. Not much in the way of cookware etc. Luckily all the campsites were fantastic with great kitchens etc and so we didn't need to use the camper. Go wild took on another meaning!

Hey we are back in S America

Hey there

Just arrived in Santiago.after 10 days in N Zealand. Great to be back to fast free internet so should get my blog up to date with photos.......Santiago looks a real mix of the new and old. Lots of evidence of the earthquake... although here it is not too severe. The airport had sections closed and ceiling damage. You could see where small sections of the airport had collapsed BUT most has been fixed with temporary entrances and bridgeways. Sounds of hammering accompany everything here!

However after 10 hr trip we have just had a 2 hour sleep and now going out to explore the old section of the town.

Have blogged quite of few of you before I left Oz!!

Magical Maccu Pichu

It was cold and misty with a light rain as we arrived and started to walk up the hill. No sight of Wayna Picchu or any of the other peaks. As we wound around narrow paths buildings would loom out at us or a llamas hot breath would stop us in our tracks.

It was incredible to watch as the sun burnt off the mist and the green terraces spread out beneath us.

We were surprised at how busy it was and so after a short walk we decided to walk to the old Inca bridge. Normally about a half hour walk but because of the altitude it took us about an hour. So glad we did it as when we got back the crowds had thinned and we could take our time exploring!

El Albergue

Ollantaytambo

We had decided to stay in el Albergue a B & B that was right on the railway station in Ollantaytambo. Lots of people had raved about it. It was run by an American Artist Wendy Weeks and seemed the chilled out place we wanted to stay. We were not wrong. Although it was strange to walk onto the railway platform and through the front door into this quaint, homely place with lovely flower and herb gardens. We had a second storey room where the balcony overlooked the swarms of people rushing to get the train!!!

We walked up to the dusty village, where people in traditional dress sold bits and pieces on the street, tourist buses with bored or sleepy faces roared past us spraying clouds of dust into the air

We decided to have a drink and watch town life..the sights and sounds were fascinating, people singing and dancing…..a line of about 8 people in their ‘Sunday best’ marching out of step to an out of tune band, dodging the tourist buses!

Local buses where people carrying huge baskets chatted and sang.

We ate at local restaurant which overlooked the river which swirled below us. We couldn’t believe the energy in all of the rivers. Superb food. Ready to get up at crack of dawn for our Macch Piccu experience tomorrow.

5.00am and breakfast was served. Fruit, cereal, eggs, toast, tea, coffee an juice. We then walked out of the restaurant onto the train. When we booked we didn’t realize what a good idea it was. Swarms of people were pressed against the entry and train guards tried frantically to check tickets and get people on board.

The train cranked up and started to move, people were running, stumbling and leaping onto the train. Families were separated and then everything was calm. There was nothing more to be done than to sit and as the train dodged through the rainforest. Most people used the tracks as a roadway and the train honked its way up to agnes Calientes, the last stop before Macchu Piccu.

The only way up the hill was via these buses that sped their way agilely around hairpin bends, afraid that if they lost speed they would slide back down the hill. Luckily we were on one of the first buses and so we only met one bus on its way down… and thankfully that wasn’t on one of the many hairpin bends!

It was cold and misty with a light rain as we arrived and started to walk up the hill. No sight of Warren or any of the other peaks. As we wound around narrow paths buildings would loom out at us or a llamas hot breath would stop us in our tracks.

It was incredible to watch as the sun burnt off the mist and the green terraces spread out beneath us.

We were surprised at how busy it was and so after a short walk we decided to walk to the old Inca bridge. Normally about a half hour walk but because of the altitude it took us about an hour. So glad we did it as when we got back the crowds had thinned and we could take our time exploring!

There are many ways to machu picchu

There are many ways to Machu Picchu

Getting tickets to Machu Picchu is not as simple as it sounds. Small tourist shops are everywhere selling tickets for adventure trips, treks, guided tours, you name it. They all have a “flexible” price. We decided to go by bus but ended up in a really clandestine deal where we had a luxury mini bus and guided tour just to ourselves all for the regular price of a bus. We didn’t necessarily want this but its what we ended up with! How does that work?

We were to meet around the corner from the hotel and away from the tourist shop…. And….not to tell ANYONE about this!

So next morning at 5.45 am we were surprised to be met at the appointed spot and our luggage quickly stored in the bus by a charming driver. He alarmed us by taking a small road to nowhere where the woman who had sold us the ticket suddenly leapt out smiling furiously… a quick chatter in Spanish and off we went. Immediately he started the “add on” spiel. Before you leave would you like a “special” tour of Cusco… on the way would you like… and so on! No, no no we said. Suddenly he pulled up and a woman got in the back of the car… who was she? Lots of chatter and then we found out she was his daughter and he was giving her a lift and YES she could give us a tour of Cusco!

We dropped her off and off we went winding our way through mountain passes to the Sacred Valley! Our guy was really helpful, but we always had the vague feeling that we were going to end up at a cousin’s house who just had something to sell to us!

Of course there were a number of markets to stop at on the way! (Click each photo to enlarge)

Our first view of the Sacred Valley was fantastic! Luckily it was not raining…. We had heard so many stories of people wading through knee deep mud that we had postponed our walking trip and decided to get the train from Ollantaytambo… it the light of the landslides a brilliant decision.

Cusco

Cusco

What an amazing place……..huge grandiose cathedral, churches, covered walkways, T shirt shops, restaurants huddled around the typical “Spanish” square. The good news was that we had booked a room which had incredible views right across the city. Bad news was that it was at the top of a steep cobblestoned hill. Our shutters opened and a world of terracotta roof tiles was displayed below us.

The drama of Cusco for us was when Roger put his VISA card into the machine at a shop on the square. Not only did it not deliver any money but it also swallowed his card!

OMG! I (of course) had forgotten my pin as I had not used in a year. SO we were left with the prospect of no cash for the rest of our trip! Our American dollars were useless because they had a tear or ink marks on them. I know it is crazy but that is how it works in Peru!

So I say to Roger. Stay next to the machine in case the machine spits out the card. I’ll go to the bank. Easier to say than do…where is the bank? Several attempts later, I find the right one.

I wait in a queue…. For a long time!

I finally, finally get to the desk. “Hablo Inglesi?” “Si I speak English” says Lisa. I explain the problem. “No… nothing I can do.”she says.

Lisa starts to invite the next person forward. “No” I say “You can do something”. “No” she says “I cannot”. I say “Get the manager” She says “Not possible” I say “I am not leaving until you give me my card.” She looks worried and the security guard comes over. I explain (He speaks no English) that I am not leaving until I get the card. The crowd in the queue gets restless.

Suddenly she starts to telephone frantically. Who is she calling? Am I about to be arrested? She then says “I’m sorry there is nothing I can do… you will have to get a new card.” I explain that I am from Australia and I cannot get another card and without it have no money AND that I am NOT leaving this seat until I get the card.

I ask if she can get a security guard to go to the teller to get the card. Finally, finally she calls and confirms that that is what they will do.

Come in one hour and I will give the card back……..amazingly we do….. and there is the card. We are welcomed to the front of the queue as if we are royalty. “Which card would you like?” she asks as she spreads out a range of cards that the machine has captured that day!

What a relief!

Cusco is a truly amazing place of churches, steep roads that wind up the hillside and end in little squares with tiny restaurants, art galleries and music. A true blend of cultures, Inca buildings transformed by the Spanish and used extensively today.

Loved it!

Will add photos later when I have better internet connection (Probably S America!)

Food Fantastic Food

We were totally unprepared for all the food and entertainment. 10.00am there was a lesson in how to make a Pisco Sour and of course as much Pisco Sour as you can drink…. one was truly enough. Then came the dancers and singers. All the while the train rumbled and rocked along the rickety tracks through wonderful countryside of streams, waterfalls, plains and haphazard towns. Women in traditional dress who were minding llamas or sheep, waved shyly to us. Surreal.

Then it was lunch, as always in Peru beautifully prepared and presented and accompanied by rather nice Chillean wine. Time to relax but no… our hostess who had first of all booked us on the train, then served us lunch now mysterious turned into a fashion model and sashayed and swayed along the narrow carriage with dubious Peruvian fashions.

Again the only word that comes to mind is surreal!

No we are not really in Puno Peru

Here I am sitting looking at the fantastic Zealand scenery on our way over to the West Coast. I realise if I don’t finish off our Peru trip it will get lost in the ether.

So here we go…..

From Puno we caught the train over to Cusco. My oh my what a quirky first class experience. We were personally greeted on board and shown to our seats in a rather old fashioned but luxurious carriage. However we preferred the open air car at the back.

Off we hooted and tooted. I don’t know if any of you have seen the You tube video where market stall holders quickly move their wares from the train track only to replace them when the train rolls through …mmm well that is what happened at Juiiaca.. AMAZING!

Click here to see video.