On the road to Paracas

It was fantastic to arrive in the oasis of the Mirador Hotel in Paracas. Peace quiet and ocean views after the "throb" of Lima. Unexpectedly our bus was not the local 3rd class bus but a classy one where we even had "executive seats with extra leg room (not that I need it!). $40 for 250 kms (extra cost for Christmas). Even our journey to the "dangerous" bus station was easy as we got an official taxi and they escorted us into the waiting room.

Leaving Lima we passed shacks with no windows, barren landscapes with distant hills crammed with shanties which were overlooked by huge crosses or statues which in turn were surrounded by radio masts. Gradually the greenery increased and the houses grew in size but always a shanty town and new construction in sight.

Intense habitation gave way to agriculture - cows, pigs,and hens housed in an array of "pastures" usually a small area surrounded by "thatches" of twigs and branches or rock walls. Just as in the city each section of road had its own "trade or character: car repair, dressmaking, pharmacies etc, just so with the country. Pigs were replaced by cows which were were replaced by huge long tents of chickens. All the while the ocean could be seen in the distance.

One thing that puzzled us was the fact that the land looked desolate. There were tracts that were surrounded by brick walls but there was nothing inside. Huge signs read PRIVADO. Sometimes the walls were falling down and there was just rubble inside. Many of the houses too looked unfinished with pieces of wire sticking out of the first storey - no roof but people living underneath. Crap was everywhere - which is surprising because everywhere is meticulously clean, street cleaners everywhere.

The tiny houses we passed had no windows and were set in the far corner of compounds. Impossible to imagine living there, it must be so hot in there. The weather here has been cloudy and balmy quite a shock after Gunnison

The bus stopped about 10 times . Each time there was a group of people waiting to get on. Usually there was a food seller women in the main, dressed smartly in striped blouses, with baskets of sandwiches and little hangers of nuts, pretzels etc. Every few minutes they would come through the bus offering drinks and goodies to eat. The other people who got on the bus were the inspectors who hopped on and off the bus with great regularity checking tickets with great authority.

4 hours later we had seen everything from the shanties to middle class apartments: expensive houses and agriculture and the new resorts with their sparkly clean white walls. These modern apartments tumbled down the steep slopes to the sea. Other resorts have huge fancy names and entrances but nothing behind the walls and fences - were they for camping, closed down for the season? Hard to say.

Craggy outcrops jutted out into the ocean. The view from the bus was one of absolute desolation and mess ending in a beautiful vista of the ocean.

Suddenly we were at Pisca. Must be time for a travel spat. These are the quick ridiculous arguments you have when travelling when both people are absolutely right. Roger didn't think we were there. I was anxious to get off - he didn't want to ask if this was the place. I asked "Pisco, Pisco?" "Si, SI" they said. We leapt out By this time the bus was ready to go. Our luggage was still inside. Roger got hisout. But where was mine? The bus was moving. There it was. I pulled it out - but no travel wheels. Saw them and grabbed them as the bus pulled out. Only when we got out did I realise that the super long octopus strap was missing - shit!

Meanwhile we were surrounded by a cluster of taxis - one person with reasonable english was obviously in charge.. Roger was still not convinced we were in the right spot. I must admit we were at the side of the PanAmerican Highway surrounded by desert and not a sign of Paracas. Mr Smoothie was harassing us saying taxi to Paracas 25 soles. I was not interested I was heading down to the bus depot to check prices and book our trip back.

"Let's just go" said Roger. I can't help bargaining, even though I didn't really want the cab and they don't really bargain here.
20 says I ... no 15. Smoothie with a look of disgust on his face says "What makes you think it is work 15 especially when he has to drive back here empty. "Come on" says Roger "20 is fine"

I am still a bit miffy I've not booked our trip back, not sure 20 is OK, feel a bit hassled and I HAVE LOST MY OCTOPUS STRAP!

We set off though back streets lots of rubble & mess everywhere- along the beach front the same story. It was only later, (Like 3 days later) we found out that there had been an earthquake and tsunami which had wiped out 80% of the houses and buildings. This place is only just starting to recover.

We pull into Paracas and there is the oasis - the Mirado Hotel. Had a vague look of a 50's American Motel but it was fronted by Cannas and gum trees - a blaze of colour in the midst of all the destruction and barrenness.

Greeted heartedly by Miguel. Everything booked, when would you like to go to the Ballestas Isles? tomorrow, its done! Internet, no problem! Swimming pool - this way. I have to say the Peruvians really make travel easy.

Our room was basically a breeze block square - meticulously clean with views over the ocean.

Out on the terrace tried to phone Caleb but no response. Called mum – no response. Suddenly Brian came through on Skype had a big chat and then Caleb. “Hi, What’s happening?” “just a minute I’ll get dad and our presents”.

How fantastic! Through the video cam we watched as he opened his presents. Did I really buy that Deer T shirt with the bare butts? I got a great Diary and purple pen from Caleb… roger a cover for his ipod – great for travelling.

MMM… no mention of the silhouette I had spent hours making for Caleb. “Er did you get anything else?” I asked. “Which address did you send it to?” he asked. Cheeky grin on his face…. “Oh did you mean this? The one with the scaggy figure behind”. I sure miss that boy.

Thank goodness he liked it and it has been up on his wall!

Lots of fun at Christmas dinner, the menu had us chucking. I thought Roger should try the first
"Boiled vegetables, hard boiled egg covered in golf sauce"

I actually had the choritos "the are seal animals very similar to moluskus" Actually they were mussels in a delicious lime chilli sauce.

Other choices were "Frayed chicken" or "Pieces of fish passed through worn out bread and eggs"

The food was actually fantastic ……lots of fresh seafood straight from the dock - cooked to perfection!

A fab Christmas day!