On the road to Paracas

It was fantastic to arrive in the oasis of the Mirador Hotel in Paracas. Peace quiet and ocean views after the "throb" of Lima. Unexpectedly our bus was not the local 3rd class bus but a classy one where we even had "executive seats with extra leg room (not that I need it!). $40 for 250 kms (extra cost for Christmas). Even our journey to the "dangerous" bus station was easy as we got an official taxi and they escorted us into the waiting room.

Leaving Lima we passed shacks with no windows, barren landscapes with distant hills crammed with shanties which were overlooked by huge crosses or statues which in turn were surrounded by radio masts. Gradually the greenery increased and the houses grew in size but always a shanty town and new construction in sight.

Intense habitation gave way to agriculture - cows, pigs,and hens housed in an array of "pastures" usually a small area surrounded by "thatches" of twigs and branches or rock walls. Just as in the city each section of road had its own "trade or character: car repair, dressmaking, pharmacies etc, just so with the country. Pigs were replaced by cows which were were replaced by huge long tents of chickens. All the while the ocean could be seen in the distance.

One thing that puzzled us was the fact that the land looked desolate. There were tracts that were surrounded by brick walls but there was nothing inside. Huge signs read PRIVADO. Sometimes the walls were falling down and there was just rubble inside. Many of the houses too looked unfinished with pieces of wire sticking out of the first storey - no roof but people living underneath. Crap was everywhere - which is surprising because everywhere is meticulously clean, street cleaners everywhere.

The tiny houses we passed had no windows and were set in the far corner of compounds. Impossible to imagine living there, it must be so hot in there. The weather here has been cloudy and balmy quite a shock after Gunnison

The bus stopped about 10 times . Each time there was a group of people waiting to get on. Usually there was a food seller women in the main, dressed smartly in striped blouses, with baskets of sandwiches and little hangers of nuts, pretzels etc. Every few minutes they would come through the bus offering drinks and goodies to eat. The other people who got on the bus were the inspectors who hopped on and off the bus with great regularity checking tickets with great authority.

4 hours later we had seen everything from the shanties to middle class apartments: expensive houses and agriculture and the new resorts with their sparkly clean white walls. These modern apartments tumbled down the steep slopes to the sea. Other resorts have huge fancy names and entrances but nothing behind the walls and fences - were they for camping, closed down for the season? Hard to say.

Craggy outcrops jutted out into the ocean. The view from the bus was one of absolute desolation and mess ending in a beautiful vista of the ocean.

Suddenly we were at Pisca. Must be time for a travel spat. These are the quick ridiculous arguments you have when travelling when both people are absolutely right. Roger didn't think we were there. I was anxious to get off - he didn't want to ask if this was the place. I asked "Pisco, Pisco?" "Si, SI" they said. We leapt out By this time the bus was ready to go. Our luggage was still inside. Roger got hisout. But where was mine? The bus was moving. There it was. I pulled it out - but no travel wheels. Saw them and grabbed them as the bus pulled out. Only when we got out did I realise that the super long octopus strap was missing - shit!

Meanwhile we were surrounded by a cluster of taxis - one person with reasonable english was obviously in charge.. Roger was still not convinced we were in the right spot. I must admit we were at the side of the PanAmerican Highway surrounded by desert and not a sign of Paracas. Mr Smoothie was harassing us saying taxi to Paracas 25 soles. I was not interested I was heading down to the bus depot to check prices and book our trip back.

"Let's just go" said Roger. I can't help bargaining, even though I didn't really want the cab and they don't really bargain here.
20 says I ... no 15. Smoothie with a look of disgust on his face says "What makes you think it is work 15 especially when he has to drive back here empty. "Come on" says Roger "20 is fine"

I am still a bit miffy I've not booked our trip back, not sure 20 is OK, feel a bit hassled and I HAVE LOST MY OCTOPUS STRAP!

We set off though back streets lots of rubble & mess everywhere- along the beach front the same story. It was only later, (Like 3 days later) we found out that there had been an earthquake and tsunami which had wiped out 80% of the houses and buildings. This place is only just starting to recover.

We pull into Paracas and there is the oasis - the Mirado Hotel. Had a vague look of a 50's American Motel but it was fronted by Cannas and gum trees - a blaze of colour in the midst of all the destruction and barrenness.

Greeted heartedly by Miguel. Everything booked, when would you like to go to the Ballestas Isles? tomorrow, its done! Internet, no problem! Swimming pool - this way. I have to say the Peruvians really make travel easy.

Our room was basically a breeze block square - meticulously clean with views over the ocean.

Out on the terrace tried to phone Caleb but no response. Called mum – no response. Suddenly Brian came through on Skype had a big chat and then Caleb. “Hi, What’s happening?” “just a minute I’ll get dad and our presents”.

How fantastic! Through the video cam we watched as he opened his presents. Did I really buy that Deer T shirt with the bare butts? I got a great Diary and purple pen from Caleb… roger a cover for his ipod – great for travelling.

MMM… no mention of the silhouette I had spent hours making for Caleb. “Er did you get anything else?” I asked. “Which address did you send it to?” he asked. Cheeky grin on his face…. “Oh did you mean this? The one with the scaggy figure behind”. I sure miss that boy.

Thank goodness he liked it and it has been up on his wall!

Lots of fun at Christmas dinner, the menu had us chucking. I thought Roger should try the first
"Boiled vegetables, hard boiled egg covered in golf sauce"

I actually had the choritos "the are seal animals very similar to moluskus" Actually they were mussels in a delicious lime chilli sauce.

Other choices were "Frayed chicken" or "Pieces of fish passed through worn out bread and eggs"

The food was actually fantastic ……lots of fresh seafood straight from the dock - cooked to perfection!

A fab Christmas day!

Final day in Lima

The second day we were getting things sussed……forget the coffee just go the scrambled eggs!

Decided we had better book our next hotel… in Paracas and work out how to get there! Found out there was a fantastic first class bus – sounded good to us – we had seen the other buses so packed people were hanging off the back – we envisaged being crushed in a corner with our rucksacks on our knees for 4 hours . Been there done that!

So with my terrible Spanish tried to book the bus… all booked out – its Christmas.. oh well 3rd class bus it is!

Found what seems to be an interesting hotel - on the edge of town, good write up in Lonely Planet - so we will see.

By the time we had skyped everyone in Oz and England it was time for lunch!

Yesterday we had seen a really nice place, a bit touristy in a quiet plaza – just what we needed. The usual fascinating walk through the narrow streets, into the plaza where the guards were still doing their high kicking routine. We were met by a Spanish looking guy who did the usual chat “Where are you from?” “Australia!” “Ah Kangaroo” accompanied by little hopping movements. “You want to eat?” He then took us around every restaurant in the plaza explaining the menu of the day.

Much to his chagrin we went to the restaurant we liked the most and it was a good choice. Roger had spaghetti! I had pollo causa – an entrée type dish (appetizer) with layers of seasoned potatoes followed by a chicken layer and potato again. Some Chilean wine and a serenade by a Peruvian quartet and we were smiling. Managed to spend a couple of hours people watching before heading off to do the usual walkabout of museums, churches and plazas.

As evening approached the crowds grew larger and we found ourselves near the bridge which divided Lima from its shanty town on the hill. Its strange isn’t it that rich people in Oz & Europe build their houses on a hill whereas here it is the poor. The hill is dominated by a huge cross. We know we shouldn’t cross the bridge but it is just too tempting.

We thought Lima was crowded but this was a heaving mass of people selling everything from used shoes and boots, single vegetables to the usual tourist crap. Again it was fascinating to peer into the little restaurants, hairdressers etc. What is it that is so intriguing about other people’s lives? When the street lights ran out we headed back.

Just by the river a woman in traditional dress had a BBQ and a guy was eating the food with great gusto! “We have to try that” said Roger. “mmm” I said “Its probably dog” One Nuevo soles later we had two kebabs, cold potatoes and a couple of very interesting sauces. “Tastes pretty good” I said. I looked around and Roger was looking a bit green. “I think it is dog” he said.

So we headed back to the cocktail bar of the Grand Bolivar Hotel. Pisco Sour is the traditional drink of Peru – A couple of these – mixed platter of chicken, cheeses olives and other unknown delicacies and life was good – if noisy with sound of relentless traffic and car horns.

Time to pack for our Paracas adventure!

Lima shock! The first day

In the morning the Bolivar looked even bigger and grander. The hotel took up a whole block. The huge corridors stretched out before us. Faded chaise longue sat elegantly in the corners. It took us 15 minutes just to walk “around the block”. The ancient elevator just looked too dodgy so we descended the ornate stairs to make a grand entrance into the expansive hotel lobby.

Breakfast inclusivo! Black strong coffee – phew! Even stronger than Greek coffee… omelette con jamon, fresh breads and toast set us up for the day.

Decided just to explore the streets. Mmmmm I thought the traffic in Vietnam was chaotic BUT it was slow. This is Vietnam ‘no rules traffic’ BUT all travelling at max speed stopping just a the last minute to avoid hitting a pedestrian, car or shuttle.

Money changers everywhere and the pavements were just packed with a moving mass of shiny black haired people jostling. Like in many places in asia streets have a character of their own….pharmacies or cars or photocopia.

By lunch time we were ready to escape the noise and so ducked into a quiet little café……the meals were huge so we decided to share a stir fry. Yum. $3 pretty good!

Walked down to the main square bordered by a huge cathedral, presidents palace and men’s club. Says it all really. Fab architecture decorated for Christmas. Watched the amazing spectacle of the changing of the guard. High kicking soldiers dressed to the hilt in red jackets, pom pommie hats and bright blue pants did almost a showgirl routine to the sounds of brass band playing everything from Broadway hits to Beethoven. Surreal.

So many military and at least 10 types of police everywhere. Crime here is unbelievably high and as tourists there are set places to go. We did go to a couple of “dangerous” places such as the bus station when we left, but travelled in an official taxi organised by the hotel and we were escorted straight to the bus.

Groups of riot police on every corner with rifles and shields…spent most of their time chatting and laughing with people as they went by. Just got the message over though abut who was in control. Not as much poverty here in the city as I expected. Maybe our 1st world cities have just caught up and we have got used to seeing street people. Certainly the case in Los Angeles and Sydney.

Decided that we needed time out and so caught the tourist bus around the city. Mmmm chose the wrong time of day as the whole place was grid locked with traffic. Worked out the traffic system, basically drive as fast as you can, at an intersection don’t look just honk your horn. If something is in your way honk your horn more loudly. As a final option stop.

Our bus was turning left from the middle lane, another shuttle wanted to go straight ahead … so they did… curving around our turning bus and driving over the median strip avoiding an accident by the wisp of the blue smoke from the exhaust!

Traffic cops on every corner blow whistles and wave arms ineffectually as the traffic does just what it wants.


Huge plazas and statues tower over every junction. Whenever there is a slight pause groups of young men acrobat over the roofs of cars in breathtaking performances. They then run up and down getting a few soles here and there. Not only were their athletics astounding but also the fact that they didn’t get hit by cars.

Amazingly we didn’t see one accident while we were here!

I am sure the commentary in the bus was fantastic but traffic drowned out words and it only added to the general melee. Seeing all the different people squashed into buses and the higgledy piggledly style of unfinished houses gave us a real sense of the place though.

Eventually the senses could take no more and we decided we needed the peace and tranquility of the Bolivar… time to reflect, read and of course write journals

OH MY GOD!!! LIMA!!!!

So from calm LA to hustling Lima

Arrived to a wall full of people but not like Madras where every second person was pushing and touting for a hotel or cab. It was quiet but there was a real air of excitement as hundreds of people waited to greet family members returning to Peru for Christmas.

A few people asked us if we wanted a taxi but we saw an “Official Taxi” stand and a grey haired well groomed man in smart grey suit welcomed us to Peru. Grand Bolivar Hotel he said $17 and immediately called our driver. A couple of minutes later a diminutive man (we were to meet lots while we were in Peru, makes me feel positively tall!) took us out into the dark, mild night to our “Green Taxi” He slid the sign off the roof (what did that mean?) and away we shot. I don’t think that apart from when we slammed to a halt at lights or braked horrendously to avoid another vehicle we ever travelled at a speed less than 90km!

Surprising amount of traffic on the road – it was after all 11.30 @night. But it was quiet.. the occasional honk of a horn at lights and voices emerging from casinos as we passed but generally quiet and calm. Certainly no yahooing! Many cars we passed were battered and rusted. Amazing to think they were still drivable. Mini buses were packed to the hilt and speeding along at the same rate as us.

Many of the apartments that we roared passed appeared to be unfinished, but were clearly occupied by many families, even modern looking buildings had broken windows and looked unkempt and uncared for.

It is always strange to land in a country and feel the “stamp” the culture has made on a place. Immediately had the sense that the outside or externals don’t matter, recognise that behind those battered walls will be some wonderful and some awful living spaces.

Traffic lights bring out the worst in the drivers and we experience the macho revving of engines and ingenious ways to beat traffic lights including swinging onto the pavement if necessary to overtake! A few near crashes certainly got the adrenalin going!

After hurtling through the 60’s concrete jungle we emerge to find ourselves in a grand square – a zocolo. Santa and glittering lights adorn the ornate buildings. The centre of the square is dominated by a huge figure astride a horse . “The Libertor” Only later did we find out that a statue of Our Lady had been commission to sit below the liberator. On her head was to be a garland of flames. Unfortunately in Spanish the word flames and llamas are the same. You guessed it - she has a llama on her head! I would have liked to have been a fly on the wall the day the statue was unveiled!

As we crawl around the square…….traffic has built up, we see a small bar – that looks fun we think! Just then we pull in front of the Grand Bolivar Hotel… and grand it is, if faded somewhat!

Immeidatley the bell boy – a small man of about 50 rushes out and grabs both of our backpacks, legs buckling under the weight … and he is gone through the shadows and gloom of the hotel entrance. What an entrance. It is eerie, no lights on but through the gloom we can make out a huge stained glass cupola up ahead, Christmas tree, busts of roman generals and a piano. Through an archway and there is a reception. Grand counter, bell pulls, huge safe and a welcoming smile from a young guy who speaks great English.

Hola, Buenas Noches, Hi but mmmmm we don’t seem to have a booking for you! I show him the voucher that shows we have paid in full. Ah internet he says. No worries we have plenty of room. He clicks his fingers and the bellboy is back and we are in an ancient lift where the brass is gleaming. I look around…everything is ancient, faded but spotlessly clean.

Our room is huge with a low bed covered in a deep red satin quilt and white, white linen pressed beautifully, if a bit limp. Ancient bathroom and plumbing. So quiet. We enquire about food…. 12.00am everything closed fair enough and so we head out across the square to the little outside bar that we saw.

In we go… immediately a waiter in a perfect uniform shows us to a seat in the corner of the varandah where we have a great view of the square. We ask for una cerveza and una copa de vino blanco. Beer no problem vino mmmmm. Next to us were 4 people obviously drunk as and REALLY REALLY LOUD. They immediately decided to help us. There was a thin teary looking young woman, a plumper women with the LOUDEST voice I have ever heard. An older man obviously in his cups and a jovial looking younger guy with a permanent smile on his face.

Quel horreur! They managed to move from their corner into our ears in five seconds flat. The whole restaurant was looking in our direction………not what we anticipated. (We have been here 6 days now and not seen anyone drunk or disorderly!!!!)

The waiter reappears with a bottle of horrible sweet red wine which the group have paid for. The old guy stumbles out of the café. They yell after him embriagado, embriagado……”pissed, pissed”

A story emerges, repeated constantly at high decibels which went something like “my sister…my sister…England, ENGLAND My sister England, plane, baby. Each member of the group came close and repeated this, their breath stinking of beer and cigarettes, – their shouting making our ears throb. Somehow through all of this we managed to order some chicken and patatas.

The waiter arrives and sweeps the food onto the table. The group retreat back to their corner. We breathe a sigh of relief and start to eat. Mumbles from behind. We can hear the thin woman crying. She starts to cuddle with the guy, we look fixedly at our meal (which is actually very good).

Suddenly the guy lunges towards us, patting our backs and asking what we are doing to tomorrow. "Leaving for Araguipa." we say. "Where you stay"? "Grand Bolivar Hotel" we say. This brings cheers and cries of Peru. Peru. The guy gets out his business card, Christian he says. I think he means religion and then realise it is his name. A bottle of beer is slammed on the table, the plump women slops our wine into her beer glass, swigs it down and then they all lurch out of the restaurant. What a surreal experience!

Gratefully, we finish our meal in silence under the gaze of astonished Peruvians who have clearly never seen anything like it!.

LA to LIMA! Whoo HOO!

No breakfast at the Penthouse this morning as we had a plane to catch. Quick trip back to the airport, this time on a fixed charge of $25. Through all the suburbs rather than the freeway, much more interesting. Would have loved more time to explore. Great restaurants such as the west Indian with brightly painted oilcans around the outside, brought back memories of "Shades" in Sheffield with its West Indian bands and air of excitement and music.

We arrived really early at the airport as we had not been assigned seats and thought we were going to be bumped, but all was well and we checked in our luggage pretty quick smart. Security was the usual pain, taking off shoes, taking out laptop, small liquids etc. Through at last we walked into the terminal which was in the middle of renovations….tiles up, painters everywhere and at first it seemed there was no where to buy food. The only place open sold breakfast burritos. 2 of these plus tea and coffee set us back $26 …Holy Moses!

Guy next to me really friendly. Lived in Singapore for years and travelled back and forth to US. Lots of tips on travelling, including don’t drink any wine – forget that!

Food really good… Great movie, “Notes on a Scandal” Cate Blanchett and Judi Dench, brilliant acting superb, great direction and photography. Young teacher has an affair with 15 year old is the basic script but it was so much more. Lots of nuances as you gradually become aware of the role of the “notetaker”, members of the family etc.

As I chatted to the guy next to me her told me that he had been reading facebook and came across the name of a girl who had been in his 5 class. She had just been on a trip to Macchu Piccu and had had a great guide. So he checked out the internet, found the guy, asked him to organize the trip plus accommodation etc and sent him $600. He was supposed to meet him at the airport. I looked out to see what happened but the airport was too crowded. Must email him when I can.

A bumpy landing and suddenly it was 7.30 hrs later and we were in Lima at 11.30 @ night!

Life is bliss at the Huntley!!

Woke up to a fairly grey sky. Headed straight up for breakfast at the Penthouse………My oh My was it good. Gorgeous views of snow capped mountains and the expansive curve of the bay.

Super service, super strong cappuccino, salmon Benedict and total relaxation.

THEN packing and repacking…….phewee! Think we have it sorted.

Suddenly felt absolutely exhausted. Roger decided to go for a walk for papers, water and postcards. I just lay exhausted on the bed….skyped mum and had the same conversation …we are going to Peru…where’s that. South America oh my friends husband has just been there …what is her name again? Leslie. Where did you say her husband had been? Peru. Oh I know someone who is going there. Yes its us. What’s that dear? where are you going…….and so on!

Had a long (maybe three quarters of an hour skype to Brian. A fair old ramble around what is happening with him, his previous visits to LA – how he played with Aretha Franklins piano player, had his photo taken by Rolling Stones photographer etc etc. Good stuff.

Went for a walk down the Promenade which was full of buskers – some great, others who really should have stayed home! Great to be back in the buzz of a city once more. Enjoyed walking and seeing all the different people, clothes, shapes, sizes, accents, skin colour.

As we walked we saw the most incredible bag lady with an cart so meticulously organised it was like a neat and tidy suburban house. She had carefully made a dress out of sacks and embroidered it – obviously with great pride.

We found a little secluded patio at the hotel and made the most of the balmy weather to eat sushi and drink wine.

While we were waiting for the bell boy to pick up the luggage and take it into store we got a Skype call from Linda and John…….great fun to chat.

Decided to give our sleeping bags to some of the homeless guys on the beachfront. The first guy looked surprised but was really pleased to get the sleeping bag………the second one was absolutely delighted … so felt good about that. Never know I might end up on the streets one day and if I do, I hope someone will treat me with respect and keep an eye out for me.

Off to the Oysterette for dinner – lovely to sit outside opposite the beach and people watch. There was a garage doing a roaring trade parking cars – opulence of Porsche, BMW, etc and the clothes – women in high heel boots. Does everyone in LA really have skinny legs.

Watched people around us drink French champagne – just as we did and eat lobster while the homeless guys in the park opposite just hang out. Preparation for Peru I guess. Having said that loved the meal. Bouillabaisse for me and fish and chips for roger …..washed down with yet more crisp white wine. Yum!

Walked back to hotel smelling all of the different smells, ocean, plants. Realise that in a cold climate this heady mix is not an everyday thing!

A final check for tomorrow and so to bed

Santa Monica

Luckily I had made sandwiches as there was nothing to eat on either of the planes. Staff more friendly thank goodness. Starting to tune into Peru…also wondering how on earth we are going to get everything back to OZ.

Funny to see the cities getting bigger and bigger as our journey progressed and LA was of course the largest.

Our luggage was some of the last to come off and I was starting to become a bit anxious but then it came tumbling down…rucksacks, golf clubs, Veendam bag and all! Phew!

Into a cab (which should have cost $25 but actually cost $50!!) and there was the ocean and the Huntley. A motley crew we must have looked - our bags draped off the luggage cart but finally we were in the lift to the 14th floor……..great view of the beach and the city.

Bliss of a shower – a half bottle of Veuve Cliquot and then off to the pier for seafood……..white wine in a tumbler and relaxation!

Home to check and answer emails - love getting them thanks. Left messages for Caleb and then to bed.

Grand Junction to LA

Linda as usual got us really organised and we got to the airport in time to return the car, check in our baggage ($100) and to go for breakfast – Eggs Benedict – yummy!

Sad to say goodbye but hopefully we will meet up in Sydney in March or in UK later in the year.

Just wiped on the journey to Phoenix. Couldn’t believe we had got everything done and that we were on the plane. Awful US Air flight attendant who was bored stupid and just reeled off information at twice the speed of sound. Lots of stuff not working on the plane – no hot water – no water in toilet etc. Didn’t fill us with confidence BUT the lovely message from John more than made up for that.

The views as we left were just fantastic, the deep canyons of the Gunnison and Colorado rivers, snow dusted mountains and the straight lonely roads that we had travelled in all sorts of weather. Seeing Utah from the air was also terrific. Incredible how big everything is … will miss the wide open spaces and there always seems to be a snow covered mountain in the distance!

The contrasting view coming into Phoenix was of a HUGE spread out city, with carefully constructed streetscapes that spread out in undulating waves before us. A long streak of a canal dissected the town – I wonder if this is the end of the mighty Colorado?

Strange to see the glistening swimming pools of suburbia once more. Wow 70 degrees out there – no more thermal underwear for a while!

At Phoenix we had to walk the usual 5 km but luckily we had plenty of time. What a sight we must have looked though as we had far too many bags… cameras….backpacks, roller bags, coats. Most of which we are going to leave at the hotel in Santa Monica.

The desk was pandemonium people milling about and flights overbooked. We suddenly realised that we had no idea of the name of our hotel. We had booked it so long ago on a special deal. The main attractions being that it was one block from the ocean, provided free storage of bags while we were in Peru and had a special deal, the $450 room only costing $100!! But what was its name? Would we have time to check the internet?

Yeehah! Free internet. Plugged in my lovely new Mac and connected straight away… found the email, checked messages – lovely one from Kathy. Texted Roger’s dad and emailed, Caleb, Kathy & Linda and then onto the plane.

Santa Monica here we come!

 

Farewell parties

 

Last day in Gunnison

What an amazing farewell from Gunnison. The last couple of weeks were so bitter-sweet with lots of individual and group farewells, cards, hugs and gifts – too many to list here but all momentous in their own way.

Jack Lucido and Terry Schliesman recorded TV and Radio interviews about our exchange and the radio program was broadcast in the week that we left. The Gunnison Times published a full page article a couple of days before we left and as we departed Grand Junction the pilot came on to say there was an important message from the tower.

"Could you all welcome aboard The Dawsons who are returning to Australia after spending a year in Gunnison. We wish them a pleasant trip home!" Our friend John who works at the control tower in Grand Junction had sent the message through. A great but teary moment.

Our farewells included a lovely dinner at El Paradisio a local Mexican restaurant with the Golf crowd. Felt so nostalgic to be driving down an icy Main Street with the Christmas lights reflecting in the crisp snow and shop windows.

Driving towards the giant Christmas tree we remembered the excited faces of the children who a week before had made giant decorations and then ridden up to the top of the tree in a cherry picker to decorate it. It was Freezing but they loved it.

Marta Smith put on a splendid farewell evening……It gave us a chance to give a few gifts to people who had made an extra effort to make our visit special……Marta has been amazing. Taking us to a Bronco game in Denver, lending us a car for three weeks after we sold ours. Inviting us to dinner and BBQ’s and generally being a great friend and colleague.

Roger was really quite choked up when he was given a specially commissioned picture of Gunnison Middle School by the District Superintendant. It was terrific that he acknowledged Roger’s achievements in what has not always been the easiest of circumstances.

We held an “Open House” with over 45 people getting together to eat , drink, dance the Polka to the accordion music of Peter Dunda and Santa Spencer distributed silly presents which were boisterously traded across the room!

A lovely, fun evening which left us wondering when we would see people again….and where.

Kathy put on a lovely evening at her house – the “Gunnison Gals” and their partners were great company, lots of laughs as we shared stories of our early romances. Went for an amazing walk afterwards along the frozen river. Our breaths almost froze as we chatted and laughed……brrrrrr it was wonderful.

Before the farewell lunch put on by the office staff Roger and I went around to all the classrooms and gave out Christmas bags of Anzac biscuits decorated with Christmas icing . It was great to see all the teachers and students before we left.

When we first arrived, Kim and Coop our community sponsors picked us up from the airport took us through the deep snow to “Garlic Mikes” an Italian restaurant just across the highway. So on our final night in Gunnison the 4 of us went back……..had Green fried tomatoes, seafood linguine and salads, just like on the first night. Brought back lots of memories of Coop rescuing me when I drove the car off the edge of the drive and into the snow, walking with Kim and Coop coming to the rescue and ploughing our driveway so that we could get out of the driveway

At Roger’s farewell assembly he got all the kids singing Waltzing Matilda we showed a quick imovie of our experiences of the year and with a quick chant of Aussie, Aussie, Aussie, oi, oi, oi…. It was all over!

Lots of hugs from everyone brought yet more tears to our eyes. This was the moment that Caleb chose to call and ask us what we were doing!! Great timing.

Then it was the final flurry of cleaning, bags into the back of the car and we were on the road to Grand Junction.

Weather reports had massive snow storms in the East but for us it was a crisp, clear, cold night – no snow or ice on the road… a sliver of a moon and bright stars to light our way. Just such a relief to arrive at Linda’s house. We crunched our way through frozen snow, to be welcomed by wine and a beautiful meal. John joined us for dinner at about 10.30 and before we knew it , it was 2.00am.


Lovely evening, so hope the four of us catch up soon.

Up at 6.00am….to do a final resort of packing…….poor Linda ended up with all sorts of things we decided not to take. Trip to the airport was just stunning….The tops of buttes and escarpments of the National Monument (a superb National Park) were covered in snow and mule deer bounced along the side of the road as we went.

And so to Phoenix and LA!

Thanks for clicking

Many thanks for everyone who gave the B & B site a click or two - the search engines are starting to pick us up again, so hopefully will be busy when we get back.

Our boxes and bags are packed ready for collection. Farewell lunches, dinners and parties are in full swing. So looking forward to seeing everyone in Oz in January.


LA, Lima and Peru here we come.


Wherever you are have a fab christmas.

Love Julie and Roger

Vegas really is over the top. Just loved walking the strip. Went to see Phantom of the Opera - cruised Caesars Palace and the Venetian and took in the amazing views from the top of the stratosphere. Couldn't believe people went on the rides from the top!.............Oh yes and we had a bit of a betting spree - lost $6 and that was it!!!!!!!!!!

Couldn't believe how many family groups chose to spend the holiday in the casinos - babes in arms to sulky teenagers milled through the smoky atmosphere to stare fixedly at the rolling dice or bandit screens.

Fat ass man

Had a lovely evening with our friends from Gunnison. Lots of laughs as we watched the video Jack made of an interview with Roger when we first arrived. How could we have so many problems filling up with petrol? It was really funny when Roger told the story about when we were buying our car and the salesperson said "Hi Fat Ass Man" Our mouths dropped open until we realised that she had said "Hi Fed Ex Man!

I think we have improved!

Absurd really!

Hey had a great time with Shaun, Janet and Gabe. Saw "Absurd Person Singular" and Yep it was really absurd! Great dinner at Alphonsos? Roger and I also saw Well - go see it if you have a chance I think it is on in Sydney - great play.

Woke up to snow! Headed off nervously over mountain passes. Suprisingly my section of the drive, which usually has the deepest wind driven snow drifts, poor old Roger got Monarch Pass which was treacherous - ice and snow. Unknown to us Marta (who lent us her car after we sold ours) was right behind us. She along with about 6 other cars slithered off the road, luckily not over the precipitous edge. Whooo scary stuff!

Farewell lunch

Can't believe its time to say goodbye! Fantastic lunch put on by CITEL - a chance to catch up with the other exchangees and find out about their travel experiences, commiserate with each other about the Aussie Government's decision to double tax us - yes we have to pay both US and Aussie tax - and yes it is retrospective so we all have huge tax debts!!!

We all had to put on a skit - I have to say that everyone did a great job - we loved hearing about everyone's trip and seeing their photos..............can't believe how much travel we have all done. Roger and I did the wobble board and got everyone singing "Tie me Kangaroo down" Good fun.

Kerrie and Dave did a great job with "I've been everywhere ...man"

Isn't technology fantastic!

A few weeks ago, I went up to Grand Junction to stay with my friend Linda, had a great time walking in Monument National Park. Had a really fun evening with great food cooked by John and MUCH too much wine!

I copied the photos onto my data stick, then carefully washed my data stick in my jeans pocket. Sadly when I dried my data stick out it didn't work but HEY! four weeks later it sprang back into life - hence the photos!

Isn't technology fantastic!

Drove over Monarch Pass to Salida on our way to Denver. Not a lot of snow which was suprising. When we first got here we totally didn't know about Salida Old Town and just drove along the highway and thought it was a really ordinary place - just gas stations, walmart and roadside cafes. NOW WE KNOW it is a fantastic art community with lots of different galleries, workshops, quaint old buildings and fab cafes. Would have loved to have bought some of the sculptures.

Oh no I'm sick!

Just spent 3 days in bed - so sick! Mmmmm no time for this - so much to do. Hope I'm well enough to go up to Denver at the weekend.

Hey - What are you reading?

Hey a few people have asked what am I reading. Well I have just read 3 compelling books in a row that have really moved me. Mudbound is a stunning book which really brings life to history - early life in America - the conflicts of life black and wife, husband and wife, siblings and parents - sounds grim but it really is absorbing. In the same book you are attracted or repelled by a character depending on who is telling the story, it really shows that relationships are multi dimensional .......we both just loved this book.

The book thief is a fab australian book that really takes a different approach - very sad in parts but again compelling writing. The Help - a real exploration of an era........the 60's came alive along with the prejudices and attitudes of a different era -Dylon , the Stones, peace marches and entrenched attitudes . Good stuff.

As an avid reader of Gourmet Traveller, of course I loved ruth reichl's writing in Tender as the Bone - and yes the recipes do work. Again The Rapture was a frighteningly good novel, that really described the craziness, of a religious community.

Finally last but not least - Peru where we will be in a few weeks - phew. Love to know what you are reading.

Lunch with the Gunnison Gals

Great to have lunch at Kathy's house and hear all about her trip to Oz. Funny to think that all of the "gals" have stayed in our house.

Missed Halloween at the school as we were on our way to Moab but as you can see GMS really got into it! We left treats in our Halloween bag - all the goodies went thank goodness! I went to the market in Moab and was amazed to see so many people in fancy dress! Great fun!

Sunglasses heaven

deadhorse point

Dead Horse Point State Park has a overlooks the Colorado River which flows more than 500 metres below. It got its name because it was used as a natural corral by cowboys in the 19th century. It is surrounded by sheer cliffs two thousand feet high, with only a narrow neck of land about 20 metres, connecting the mesa to the main plateau, so it was easy for cowboys to simply fence off this narrow neck, and keep rounded up wild horses from running away. Legend has it that one group of horses was left fenced in and eventually died of thirst. The area was also used in the final scene of the 1991 film Thelma and Louise - which I just luved.

We just loved it.....could have kept walking but we were looking forward to catching up with Linda and John again in Grand Junction head back. Fantastic meal and then an early night as we had a 5.00am start to get back to Sunny Gunni in time for work. Off through the cold morning.... It was a stunning drive with the full moon sitting over the pink escarpment and we drove steadily towards the rising sun at the head of a clear highway! Wowee!

More Moab please

So glad we returned to Moab it is just SO beautiful. Walked down Park Avenue! So different to the Park Avenue next to our house!!!

Met up with an amazing artist Chad Niehaus, who not only does some amazing pastels but also teaches "Artist in the park" now there is an idea for Barrenjoey and West Head!

He was doing a 3 day workshop that week but unfortunately worked called and we could not stay for that or for the Moab folk festival....ah well! Check out his work http://www.moabart.com/

Walking down Park Avenue is incredible as the landscape and the arches just stretch out into the horizon, breathtaking and a bit daunting. We walked to three arches but stopped at others as we took the road that hugs the mountain side - exposing yet another awe inspiring view at every corner.

Landscape Arch is the most amazing in that it is so long and thin and of course beautiful! It looks as if it might collapse at any moment. Saw some fab mule deer with huge ears. Loved Pine Tree Arch and Tunnel arches which framed other distant arches.

What bliss! Finished off the day with a rather nice margarita in a very traditional Mexican Restaurant!!!

Job Corps

We travelled up to Grand Junction to stay with our friend Linda. Always a great night, fab food, lots of travel stories. John joined us after his stint at air traffic control finished and we imbibed a few wines together before heading off sleepily to bed.

Next morning we were off to Roger's final research school. A really interesting place. Vocational training is at the heart of this residential school for "at risk" kids. The rules and consequences were tough, but it really is the last chance for many of them to get any sort of education and to keep out of jail! Interesting but sad to hear some of the student's stories.

Crossing over the mountains to Grand Junction had been snowy and icy but weren't prepared for the 12 inches of snow and froaen lakes that greeted us as Colbran. Linda had been working at the school too on a "Kids Voting" project which is designed to develop interest at an early age in the voting system.

At the turning to Moab we parted company, will catch up with her on Sunday as we stay over before heading back to Sunny Gunni!

Last train to Bombay

Doug, Kaylonn and Caleb get together with Kathy my lunch mate and explorer from Gunnison and her daughter Erin from Hawaii. I hear a good time was had by all!!!

Art in the valley

About 20 artists in the Gunnison Valley opened up their studios to the public for a day and we had an amazing experience driving up to remote studios in the mountains , little cottages on the main road or studios right in town. Incredible to see the variety of creative approaches - huge installation art made of tumbleweed, christmas figurines made from bread and glue, found art, metal sculptures and fine art paintings painstakingly produced over 5 years.

Gunnison truly is an amazing place. Needless to say I headed home with renewed vigour to continue mask making - which I love but never seem to have time for!

SOLD!

Can't believe its time to sell our car! It really has been a great car taking us over snowy mountain passes and hot, hot desert areas. This time last year we were selling our camper van!

Lots of enquiry and sold straight away!

Ghost town..ooooooooooooooh!

Finally managed to visit this little ghost town which is just down the road from us.Ohio City started in the early 1860s and shut down when the placer gold ran out. No one bothered to find the lode that was the source of the nuggets and Ohio City was no more.

The silver boom of 1879 brought miners back to what was left of the town. A sizable vein was found and Ohio City was re-born. That lasted until 1893 when the boom collapsed and so did the town.

In 1896, some prospectors found the lode that was the source for the nuggets found in the '60s. Ohio City was again re-born. Mining operations continued until about 1916 until costs exceeded revenues.

Looking at the town someone has obviously put some money into the store and bar, new carvings on the verandah, but sadly inside was deserted. It looked as if they had just walked out, leaving goods on the shelves and coats on hangers. Just about every house in the little town was for sale.

On Guard!

One of the bi annual events is the Medieval Night at the school. Students get dressed up for the evening, parents provide delicious food of the era and there is a demonstration of martial arts. Students display their castles and there was a stunning demonstration of a trebuchet!

All organised by Duke Mark (Social studies teacher) and his lovely Duchess.

Gunnison Middle School rocks!

As always lots of things happening at the school. Went to a great choir concert and heard the band at the homecoming parade. Homecoming is a National celebration where alumni of schools and college return. Fab march through Gunni with bands from Middle and High Schools. Kids lined the streets, waved flags, sang and cheered. Luv It!!

Crested Butte is cool!

Had a lovely lazy day in Crested Butte. Amazing to see the snow transforming the town once more. Most places closed as it is between seasons............only thing to do was eat yummie food at McGills.

Its September and winter is a coming!

The streams, lakes and waterfalls are starting to freeze. Everyday is different..........love having seasons again.

Go Cumberland Pass

Realise that if we are going to see some places its not long before the snow comes and so the time is now. One of our first trips when we arrived was out to Tin Cup. Of course we didn't get very far because all of the passes were cut off by snow. So off we went.

Tin Cup got its name from one of the prospectors that carried out his gold dust in a tin cup. The underworld ruled Tin Cup and there never really was any law. Every time an honest sheriff would arrive, he would be told what to do by the leaders of the underworld. If he didn't comply, he was killed. And so the cemetery at Tin Cup is filled with honest sheriffs and other good people that did not comply with the underworlds demands. Around the turn of the century there was said to be about 2000 people here and shortly after that the population dwindeled. Now its a popular place to have a cabin in the summer months.

We set off over Cumberland Pass - confident we wouldn't see snow............mmmmmmmmmmmm fantastic scenery and scary roads... that's Colorado. Loved seeing the streams starting to freeze up for winter. Mountain tops covered in snow. Roads, suddenly narrowing with precipitous edges and icy patches, conifers with snowy branches. Fabuloso!